Necessaire porta-bijoux

Olhem que achado esse projeto....
simples mas que faz uma falta.... aproveitem.
o endereço é http://networkedblogs.com/rwqpc

Mais uma ideia para o Dia das Bruxas....

Witch Boot

Encapando cadernos, ficharios, etc....

Estou pesquisando projetos para encapar cadernos, agendas, ficharios, etc.... e, vou postando aqui o que encontrar de lindo pela net para dividir com voces..... Vamos ao primeiro:


 Composition Notebook Covers

Voces encontram o tutorial aqui: http://bloominworkshop.wordpress.com/2011/08/16/composition-notebook-covers/

Para o Dia das Bruxas... Pumpkin pincushion

Olhem que coisa mais fofa.... do site www.sewwequilt.com

Pumpkin Patch Pin Cushion Tutorial. ( lots and lots of photos)

 It is for those who want to make it exactly like this… And yes it is easy- one very simple pattern piece, but here is where this pattern will be different than many others you have purchased. I show you every step, every detail, every trick, every hint, nothing held back. 

I even tell you where to get your needles, threads.... In fact for future ideas especially pin cushions or DOOR STOPPERs ( new year blog hop)   YOU will be successful in your creative zen.  If you choose any of these pumpkins in the pumpkin patch , I swear yours will look the same if you follow all the photos and purchase the same material or similar..or my name is not Mdm Samm!

Ok, are you ready to make a very simple 
PUMPKIN PIN CUSHION?

Fabric requirement

1/4 yard for your pumpkin pieces
10 inches x 2 inch for your stem, alternate colour...brown, black, green...whatever..
rice about 1/4 cup 
fiberfill ( stuffing) about a handfull
Presencia thread
Aurifil thread

( pattern is at the bottom of this post) 

Now why place your pattern piece towards the selvage edge...?

Quilting Fabrics have more stretch ( crosswise grain) and less ( lenghtwise grain)

YOU want it to stretch from the top to the bottom of your pumpkin...( crosswise grain)

If you are not sure which is which...TRY this stretch test...

YOU want your stretch of fabric to go from the top of pumpkin to the bottom,

not across, otherwise your shape will not be pumpkin like.. Make sense?

I tripled my fabric, pinned and cut and repeated again with 4 pieces of fabric...

YOU need 7 individual pieces...

Use a hot dry iron so it does not stretch your fabric. 

I love love love my Reliable Sensor iron...most dependable iron that I have ever used...

Sew one at a time until all of them have been stitched, when you get to the last one...

 #7 leave 2 inches open from the top and backstitch where you place your last stitch...

Here is what you will need....NOT all that rice or stuffing goes into that pin cushion..

this day I was making 5 of them....The bowl with rice in it, makes it easier for clean up...

The black piece of fabric there is for your stem...more on that below..

I love Aurifil thread for many reasons, our machines love it, it is very thin, so you don't see the stitches

and it holds up like no other on the market... Ohhh and those wee Dovo scissors my favourite

scissors in the whole wide world...YOU can find them here at Anita's online store..

she has a wide variety. These are the 3 1/2 size..perfect for hand sewing and cutting....

Take your 10 inch piece and roll like a pipe...trim off end pieces when completed stitching...

it will fray and that will look just fine.... now put that stem aside for now....

Turn your pumpkin right side out.. and place pumpkin shell in your rice bowl...

I used a small teaspoon to pour into opening...

Leave enough room for some stuffing...this will just look better and the pins will stay in 

your pin cushion...

I chose some Orange Aurifil thread and stitched close to the edge seam...in and out...

not over the top stitching...

See how my stitching is close to the edge and almost invisible...

now Place your stem inside, push in about 1/2 inch...

Now stitch right through stem to other side of pumpkin shell...

Piecemakers needles are perfect for any stitching where you need a longer

needle...they are sharp and ideal for making dolls ( for future -blog hop

use when adding head and limbs

to your doll)

 in this case....perfect for squeezing pumpkin together to give a full look...

Here is their link for these doll needles. They are 3 1/2 inches long...

I use Presencia thread #8 for the thread to squeeze the pumpkin from top to bottom..

That bubble gum casing is just great to keep your thread together...

Those you can find anywhere...

Double your thread and begin at the bottom and knot there, then insert needle towards

the top and thread and pull each time to bring it all in....I do this 3 x ...

YOU have completed your pumpkin when you knotted your theads on the top and bury

it is closest to the stem...

For A large variety of theme buttons, you can go to SHELLY BUTTONS AND MORE...

she has allllll of these buttons and so much more...

And how to make these 

LINK here for the Tutorial on what you need to make these..!

ALSO FREE and loads of links to purchase supplies...

 I just turned the pattern this way so you could see it...you can copy this and print 

and it should print 5.5 in length and 2 inches wide.  

Nobody ever achieves any success without others. So to Reliable a Reliable Sensor Iron, 

Shellys Buttons and More for Buttons, Anita at Anita little stitches for Dovo Scissors,

Colonial Needle for Presencia Threads and Aurifil for their BEST in threads... PieceMakers doll Needles, Thank you for creating and providing such terrific sewing and quilting tools. 

Ohhh this gingham fabric was from a collection Now we are going Places...by Monica Lee

who has retired from fabric making....sadly too...she was really good!  
The top gingham pumpkin is no other than Riley Blake Designs gingham ( 1/2 inch)
LOVE love love their ginghams!

By the way this simple pumpkin patch pin cushion pattern, took me ONLY 1 week to create, 63   23 hours ( thanks to TJ for the note)  to take photos, edit, and write...simple YOU BET ...wink!  ( been up far too many hours)
Still in exams this week! 

See you soon at Wicked....!

ohhh happy thanksgiving
I am so thankful for caring, sharing, thoughtful friends!
REALLY those who love to sew and quilt
are soooo darn sweet and generous too..

ps. Yesterday upon completing another exam...this came in my inbox...

If you believe I am a good contributor for BEST in PHOTOGRAPHY-Quilting...

by all means go to the link and vote....

WE all win of course....

I am thrilled to be with so many pretty amazing ladies.....

PONCHO TRICOTADO

Poncho doce infancia

PONCHO TRICOTADO

Você sabe tricotar? Estes passos irão lhe ensinar os segredos para confeccionar um poncho para meninas numa única tarde. É bem fácil de fazer é tricotado exclusivamente com ponto malha.
Voce precisa de
Par de agulhas n.° 9
Lã na cor violeta, 100 g
Lã fantasia cor-de-rosa, 100 g
Lã na cor manteiga, 120 g
Passos


1 
Parte dianteira: tricote 34 pontos com a lã na cor violeta. Tricote em ponto malha (uma fileira de pontos em meia e uma fileira de pontos em tricô) até obter 10 cm de altura.

2 
Troque a lã pela lã fantasia cor-de-rosa. Continue tricotando mais quatro fileiras em ponto malha.

3 
Na fileira seguinte de pontos em meia, comece a executar as diminuições em ambas as extremidades, da forma a seguir:
A) um ponto de borda, uma diminuição (dois pontos em meia juntos), tricote em ponto meia até que fiquem três pontos na agulha esquerda, faça uma diminuição (passe um ponto sem tricotar, tricote o ponto seguinte em meia, monte neste último o ponto anterior) e um ponto de borda.
B) Tricote a fileira seguinte em ponto tricô.
Continue tricotando estas duas últimas fileiras A e B para dar forma ao poncho.

4 
Ao atingir os 10 cm de altura tricotados em lã fantasia, troque esta pela lã na corde manteiga. Continue tricotando e aplicando as diminuições em ambas as extremidades A e B até ficar com dezesseis pontos na agulha.

5 

Com estes dezesseis pontos, tricote 6 cm em ponto elástico 1/1 (um ponto direito e um ponto avesso). Na fileira seguinte, tricote conforme apresentado. Corte o fio.

6

Tricote a parte das costas da mesma forma que a parte da frente.

Montagem: costure as partes da frente e das costas por ambas as laterais

Gorro e cachecol los andes

Gorro e cachecol com los Andes

Gorro (adulto):

Agulhas nº 8 (retas ou circular)
Fio Los Andes (Aslan)

Montar 48 pontos mais um ponto em cada borda.
Tecer 6 carreira em cordões de tricot e 8 carreiras meia no direito e tricot no avesso
Aos 15 cm iniciar as diminuições que acontecem a cada 2 carreiras:
- 1 ponto borda, cada 8 pontos fazer dois juntos em meia pelo direito. 1 ponto de borda;
- 1 ponto borda, cada 6 pontos fazer dois juntos em meia pelo direito. 1 ponto de borda;- 1 ponto borda, cada 4 pontos fazer dois juntos em meia pelo direito. 1 ponto de borda;- 1 ponto borda, cada 2 pontos fazer dois juntos em meia pelo direito. 1 ponto de borda;- passar o fio pelos pontos dar um nó e prender firme, costurar a lateral.

Cachecol fininho (que enrola):

Agulhas nº 8 para o fio Los Andes (Aslan) e agulhas nº 4,5 para o fio Premium (Cisne)

Monte 14 pontos com o fio Los Andes em agulha nº8 e tricote por 8 cm.
Mude o fio e a agulha e continue por 115cm tecendo em meia no direito e tricot no avesso.
Retome a agulha 8 e o fio Los Andes e teça em tricot por mais 8 cm.
Arremate.

 

fonte http://tricoteirassemfronteiras.blogspot.com.br 

The octagon tote

Uma nova visão para um antigo bloco.....

***

New Life for Old Quilt Blocks: The Octagon Tote

Hi, everyone! It's so cool to be hanging out with you today on one of my very favorite blogs. I'll try to do justice to Michele's recycling genius by sharing one of my favorite upcycled sewing projects ever.



The whole thing started when I found a stack of quilt blocks at a thrift shop – the product of someone having taken a seam ripper to a pretty groovy old pinwheel quilt. These blocks were full of nifty vintage fabrics, sun-faded to the prettiest mellow colors. I snapped them up with grand plans to return them to quilt form.

Well… rookie mistake. I didn't notice until I got them home, but many of the blocks had been torn right along the seam line when they were taken apart. So, I couldn't simply sew them back together. Then I thought I'd just cut them down to a smaller size and add some sashing. That's when I discovered that the piecing was just inconsistent enough that cutting the blocks down only made them look very wonky. 

Sigh. I put the whole mess in my stash. Four years went by. You know how that goes.



Anyway, during that time, I got interested in English paper piecing, which you've seen in action with Michele's beautiful hexie quilt. It finally occurred to me that maybe I could use this technique with my blocks. Since the pinwheel design of the block has eight sections, I thought an octagon shape might just fit the bill.



And you know what? It did! So here's how I rescued my quilt blocks and turned them into two pretty tote bags (and enough left over for coasters).




The Plan

I didn't get too crazy with the measuring when I designed my tote. I knew I could get octagons measuring 4 ¼" across out of my quilt blocks, so I worked from that. 

I decided that nine octagons this size would make a reasonable-sized tote panel, and I decided that, once I'd pieced together the octagon parts, I'd add some strips of solid fabric around the edges. So I used ¾ yard of solid to flesh out the rest of the tote's outside, and ¾ yard of a thrift-store sheet I had in stash for lining.

My finished totes measure 15" x 15", with 25" long handles. But the beauty of this kind of project is that you can end up with any size and shape you like.



Part 1: Make the Octagon Patches

If you've never English paper pieced before, there are so many good tutorials online. My all-time favorite is this one from Sunshine's Creations. 

I used freezer paper to make my octagons because I wanted to be very sure the paper wouldn't move while I was basting the fabric to it. So I drew an octagon using a drawing program on my computer (Google Drive's Drawing tool is a dandy free option). I printed two of them onto card stock, cut them out, and cut one of them precisely in half. (I'll explain why in a moment.)



Then I traced the octagon onto the dull side of the freezer paper 18 times (I needed nine octagons for each side of my tote). I used that half-octagon to trace myself some registration lines across the middle of each octagon in both directions. Then I carefully cut them all out.



Next, I placed the freezer paper over the wrong side of the fabric, shiny side down, and I used those registration lines to match up with the seams in the quilt block. (Not every block was a perfect match, but those lines helped me get very close.) I pressed the paper with a hot iron, which lightly fused it to the back of the block. Now I was ready to baste!



From this point, making octagons is a lot like making hexagons. I trimmed the quilt block to a generous 3/8" outside the edges of the paper. Then I threaded a needle with some contrasting thread, so my basting stitches would be easy to see and remove later.



Here's how I baste a patch this size: I start by taking a large-ish stitch in the middle of one side, sewing through both the paper and fabric. Then, I fold the next side down over that one, and I take a little tack stitch, just through the fabric at the fold point. I alternate those two stitches as I make my way around the octagon.



When I get back to where I started, I leave a couple inches of thread hanging from my last stitch, but I don't tie a knot. Your basting will stay in place just fine with this method, and be much easier to remove later. (You can see this whole process in action in this video of mine.)



Part 2: Making Square and Triangle Patches

Unlike hexies, octagons don't fit perfectly together – they leave little square spaces in between! So I cut some more card stock shapes to fill in those spots. For each side of my tote, I needed nine 1 ¾" squares. Four of them I left as-is. I cut four more in half on the diagonal, making eight triangles. And to fill in the very corners, I cut one last square into quarters on both diagonals.



I basted my solid fabric to these shapes. To do this basting, you can either pin or lightly glue the card stock to the wrong side of the fabric. (Have you ever tried using glue stick for English paper piecing? Hoo, boy is it dandy. You just use a tiny dash, so it doesn't damage the fabric at all. And you never get stuck by pins!)

Anyway. I basted these patches through both the card stock and fabric, just using large stitches to hold down the points where I folded one side over the other. Since the pieces are so small, you won't need more than one stitch at each edge.



Part 3: Sewing Stuff Together

The thing I love about English paper piecing is that you can sew a whole bunch of shapes together like this, and get very precise corners with little effort. Here, I sewed my octagons and squares together first, and then added the triangles at the sides and corners.



I like to sew my patches together with a whip stitch. It's just a matter of lining up the edges you want to sew together (right sides facing), making sure their end points match up. Then, take very tiny stitches; just a few threads from the edge of each patch. Make sure you sew all the way from one end to the other – don't leave any gaps at the ends! (Sunshine's tutorial covers the basics of whip stitch nicely.)

If your stitches are tiny, then you won't see them at all on the right side of the fabric. If you areseeing stitches on the right side, try a smaller needle and smaller stitches.



Part 4: Finishing

Once I'd sewn all my patchwork together, it formed two big blocks. I gave each one a good pressing – papers and all. I pressed a whole lot around the outer edges of the blocks, because I knew I'd need sharp creases there (more on that in a moment).

Then, I carefully removed all the basting stitches and papers. That's my favorite part of English paper piecing, incidentally – when this stiff, crackly thing transforms into beautiful flowing patchwork.



Now, in order to sew anything accurately to these patchwork blocks, I needed to square them. Here's where I used those sharp creases I was pressing around the outer edges. 

I carefully opened out the folds along one edge of the patchwork, but I didn't press them. The crease that runs along this edge is my seam line, and I need an accurate ¼" seam allowance extending from that.

So, I used a ¼" line on my quilting ruler and lined it up with the crease, making sure it lined up both at the top and bottom of the block. (This being hand sewing, there are always a couple places where the alignment's slightly off, but you can aim for the closest possible overall alignment and it'll work just fine.) When I had the whole edge lining up with that ¼" line, I used a rotary cutter to trim away any excess fabric bits. Then I pressed the edge out flat before sewing. I did the same thing on all four edges of my blocks.



From there, I machine-sewed solid strips to to all four edges of the patchwork. I used 3" wide strips at the bottom and sides, and a 1 ½" wide strip at the top. (That extra width at the bottom and sides allows the tote to have some depth while keeping the patchwork centered on each side.) I made two panels like this; one for the tote front and one for the back.



…And then I gave the panels a bit of reinforcement. Let's face it, vintage quilt blocks are somewhat delicate, so I didn't want any of those old seams carrying the weight of my library books and farmer's market produce!

I cut two pieces of lightweight canvas the same size as the tote panels, and then pinned one to the wrong side of each panel. I used a walking foot on my sewing machine to stitch some simple quilting lines over the surface to hold the layers together.

From there, I used my favorite-ever tote tutorial from Skip to My Lou to make up the rest of the bag.

***

You see that? It was wise to keep those old quilt blocks around for all those years after all. I just love that she's repurposed them into these extra pretty patchwork totes. It is such a great way to highlight their simple beauty. Note to self: Keep eyes peeled for yummy old quilt blocks.

fonte: http://www.michelemademe.com/